
My feature on the four previous presidential visits to Ireland in advance of the state visit of President and Mrs Obama next week
On Monday next, Barack Obama will become the fifth sitting US president to visit Ireland during his first term in office. Almost 50 years after John F. Kennedy made his triumphant visit to these shores, President Obama and his wife Michelle will follow the tried-and-tested, feel-good, photo-op-friendly route of tracing his ancestral roots, in this case in Offaly and Kilkenny city, simultaneously courting the Irish diasporic vote in the US as all White House occupants and contenders so assiduously do.
JFK, the first Irish-American US president, began his iconic Irish visit on June 26, 1963. Thousands gathered at Dublin airport from early that day to welcome Kennedy, while tens of thousands more lined the city centre route as the President travelled in an open-top Lincoln to Aras an Uachtarain. Some 300 gardai kept watch as confetti and tickertape rained down on an awestruck JFK from the open windows above him.
The next day Kennedy was helicoptered to Wexford to meet his distant relatives, the Ryans and the Kennedys, at Dunganstown, and then onto New Ross, the site from where his great-grandfather had sailed for Boston a century before.
Back in Dublin later that evening, some 2,000 people gathered in the summer rain for a garden party in JFK’s honour at the Aras, but pandemonium quickly ensued as people started leaping over chairs, “trampling toes and crumpling hats” (as one dramatic newspaper headline reported), and pushing through the linked arms of the Secret Service in order to grasp the hand of the startled Kennedy. Even a bishop was knocked to the ground in the rush.
At every turn – be it making an address to the Oireachtas or whistlestop tours of Limerick and Galway – Kennedy worked the huge crowds like a pro. Indeed there’s only one report of the affable, charming mask slipping: when a man ruffled Kennedy’s hair in Galway, the president glowered and waved the fan away. Kennedy boarded Air Force One in Shannon making numerous promises to return. He was dead by the end of the year.
The next US president to come here was Richard Nixon in October 1970, but the reception for the 37th US president couldn’t have differed more from the one given to his nemesis Kennedy.
Nixon came to Ireland for three days, at the suggestion of Irish multi-millionaire John Mulcahy from Waterville, Co Kerry. Ireland was considered a good base for Nixon to meet his team who were currently in Paris trying to hash out a peace deal to end the Vietnam War.
These controversial meetings were given a fig leaf of state visit officialdom by Nixon’s plans to visit the site of his distant Irish Quaker ancestor’s grave at Timahoe, Co Kildare (shoring up his credentials with Irish voters on the US east coast), and agreeing to spend some five hours in total meeting with President De Valera, Taoiseach Jack Lynch, and Minister for External Affairs, Dr Patrick Hillery.
Not surprisingly, protests were held against Nixon’s visit. On Sunday, October 4th, as Nixon was – in the words of Labour’s then External Affairs spokesman, Dr Conor Cruise O’Brien – “working the harp-and-leprechaun circuit” in Timahoe, over 1,000 people marched from Parnell Square to Ballsbridge in protest against the president’s contentious foreign policy.
A mock ‘trial’ held by the crowd found Nixon guilty of war crimes, and an effigy of Nixon was burned outside the US embassy, as placards depicting the president with swastikas were waved. Later that evening, en route to Dublin Castle for a banquet, Nixon, standing and waving through the sunroof, just about ducked back into the presidential limo to dodge an egg that was hurled at him from the otherwise unenthusiastic 400-strong crowd.
That said, Nixon did draw respectable crowds of 1,000 in Timahoe and 4,000 in Limerick, but perhaps the president’s strongest Irish card was his wife, Pat. Born Patricia Ryan, and so named because her birthday fell on the eve of St Patrick’s Day, the First Lady was by all accounts a popular visitor in Mayo where she flew in for a day of meeting Ryan cousins, and visiting her grandfather’s former homes in Ballinrobe and Robeen.

Even more divisive and unpopular was the 1984 visit by President Ronald Reagan, another Republican whose foreign policies in and towards the Soviet Union, and Central and Latin America were igniting waves of intense anti-nuclear and anti-war protests around the globe.
Reagan – then aged 72 – and his wife Nancy touched down in Shannon on the evening of Friday, June 1st. Amongst the greeting party of governmental and diplomatic figures was Ireland’s current Finance Minister Michael Noonan, then Minister for Justice. ““Ah, I’ve heard of you,” Reagan said to Noonan. “Aren’t you the guy that’s supposed to look after me here?”
Again, the welcome accorded to the Reagans couldn’t hope to match that which greeted Kennedy. There were 900 gardai and defence force members at the airport – double the number of the public who bothered to turn out.
In fact, Reagan’s visit brought with it the most immense security precautions ever seen in the Irish state, not surprising considering that the president had been shot at close range just three years beforehand. In all, 7,500 Gardai (which included the then reigning Rose of Tralee) were moved around country during the Reagans’ three day visit.
When the First Couple were choppered to Ashford Castle in Cong, Co Mayo, they were driven the 100 yards from the landing pad to the hotel as six Secret Service agents walked alongside car. Coming up the rear at all times during the visit was an armoured limo known as the ‘War Wagon’, which was believed to contain five agents armed with sub-machine gun assault rifles, automatic handguns, and a variety of hand grenades and stun grenades.
After visiting Galway on Saturday, the Reagans made their way to Ballyporeen, Co Tipperary on Sunday, where 4,000 people gathered to see the president visit the spot from where his great-grandfather Michael O’Regan had emigrated for Illinois during the Famine. All protestors were kept out of the village, and security measures included the installation of five digital phones so that Reagan would be able to issue orders at a moment’s notice (this being at the height of Cold War tensions).
The famous photo-ops from that day are of the Reagans in the Ronald Reagan Lounge, a pub owned by John and Mary O’Farrell. Reagan had a pint of Smithwicks while Nancy sipped on a glass of Carolan cream liqueur, before posing with the obligatory babies. Meanwhile, outside, Derek Davis was compering for the locals, raising laughs by saying that he’d been chosen as MC by the Secret Service because his girth would provide the best cover for the president from a bullet.
From there, it was onto Dublin to meet President Patrick Hillery at the Aras, and onto a state banquet at Dublin Castle. Security was equally intense in the capital; it’s believed that there were Secret Service men underneath every manhole along the presidential motorcade’s route from Phoenix Park to Lord Edward Street.
Later, some 10,000 people marched through Dublin in the ‘Ring Around Reagan’ demo, carrying mock Pershing and cruise missiles, and chanting ‘Give Peace a Chance’ and ‘Ronald Reagan, he’s no good, send him back to Hollywood’. One American woman in the crowd was quoted in the press as saying, ‘Jeez, they must be all Democrats in Dublin’
The next day, Reagan’s last in Ireland, as he became the second US president after JFK to address the joint houses of the Oireachtas, 4,000 protestors (including Michael D. Higgins and then USI president Joe Duffy) congregated outside Leinster House booing and whistling. Meanwhile, inside, some 20 deputies abstained in protest, while Tony Gregory and Workers Party TDs Tomas MacGiolla and Proinsias De Ross walked out of the chamber mid-speech.

However, just over a decade later, De Rossa would be playing host to another US president as one of the three party leaders in the Fine Gael-Labour-Democratic Left ‘Rainbow’ government. The Clintons – the Bill n’ Hill show – rolled into Dublin on December 1st, 1995, following a triumphant stopover in Belfast the day before, marking a return to the kind of ecstatic public reception that greeted JFK 30 years previous (and which is sure to greet the Obamas in May).
As 80,000 people crowded into College Green that evening, with sharpshooters positioned on roofs all around, Clinton worked his famed rhetorical magic, praising Dublin’s “handy” Gaelic football team, and giving a shout-out to all those in the audience named Cassidy – his mother’s maiden name.
Soon after that, Bill and Hillary visited Cassidy’s pub on Camden Street where the president drank a pint of stout (sparking a PR war between Guinness and Murphys over which brand he actually consumed), though the First Lady left after 15 minutes because she couldn’t handle the smoke in the bar.
Clinton too addressed the Oireachtas in his self-styled role as peacemaker, an event that brought John Hume and Gerry Adams into the Dail for the first time. Such was the rapturous tone of the visit that one White House staffer on the trip commented, ‘This is day two of the 1996 presidential campaign’.
Indeed, that’s a point that won’t be lost on Obama as he heads into the 2012 race. After their respective Irish visits, Nixon and Reagan went onto win second terms in record landslides, while Clinton also comfortably sailed to re-election. Most put those victories down to good campaigns and weak opponents, but none of them, Obama included, wanted to miss the chance to bank some of the ‘luck of the Irish’ along the way.